Is this a Proper Config for Kinetico 4040S OD/RO system?

[pawaterguy]

the 4040 has 4 tanks. 2 are the softener and 2 are usually carbon. the 2040 is just a softener...IE half of a 4040. Servicing a 2040 is easier in the long run because you don't have to take the tanks apart to rebed one or the other. I prefer a dechlor1060 in front of a 2040 with a prefilter between them. If you have to rebed the dechlor then you pop it off and rebed it. No screwing around with that extra tank connection. The settings aren't any different. Just preference mind you but for servicing it can't be beat that way in my opinion. If you're getting periodic shots of salty water there are a few things the service guy can check inside the head. Making sure the brine flow control is not clogged is up there on the list. Your service guy should know what to do.

[Andy CWS]

How many filters do you have before the 4040? What micron rating? Size? Incoming line pressure? Diameter of incoming pipe?

[riceburner99]

How many filters do you have before the 4040? What micron rating? Size? Incoming line pressure? Diameter of incoming pipe?

Unfortunately, the guys at Orlando Water never recommended any pre-filters when they did the install and I didn't know any better, so there are none... If I had to guess, my incoming line pressure is probably in the neighborhood of 60 PSI, based on a pressure gauge I have on a sink supply line inside the house. Not sure about the incoming pipe size, guessing 3/4" -- whatever the standard size builders typically used on spec homes 5 years ago... There were still new homes being built in my neighborhood when the unit was installed, so I'm thinking there was a high probability of debris. But I've had a least a 1/2 dozen service calls to address the issue over the last few years -- changing disks, removing debris, replacing drain line, adjust brine metering thing, etc. I still don't know why the flow of water out of the drain pipe during backwash is not nearly as much as when the system was first installled. My wife and I are at the point of being really frustrated and ready to switch over to a cheapie Sears water softener or something so that we have peace of mind that we won't have to spit out a mouthful of salty water when we get a drink... I feel like we have a "lemon" and are ready to be done with it... I think we have probably been through their whole staff of service techs and nobody has been able to give us a permanent fix. Sorry about venting.

My original post was really about the 2040 vs the 4040, and why it might be better in my situation. The manager at Orlando Water says that since there is less media for water to be pushed through, that he thinks the 2040 is a better unit.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave

[Andy CWS]

Kinetico 2040 and 4040 are great little units but only when applied properly. These are high efficiency softeners that use little salt and water and should provide adequate flow rate when applied correctly.

These are up-flow models meaning the water enters the bottom and flows upward during service and downward during backwash. All tanks are fully packed and fine-mesh resins are used. The bottom distributor is not like typical distributors which are conical or cylindrical in shape. They are rather flat and look more like a round screen. Because there is no freeboard (body of water above the resin in standard downflow systems), backwashing is not intended to displace debris or foreign matter but only brine solution instead. As long as nothing gets stuck in there, you will have no issues.

The Kinetico service tech manual specifically states a prefilter for these two units is required whereas other K-softeners are only recommended. Many dealers don't put them in because they either feel they should not be needed on city water or just looking to cut costs, or both. Other dealers have given up on these because of similar service headaches.

I have an earlier (18-year-old) version of the 2040 (50c) and I have a prefilter on mine and glad that I have because about twice a year we get a water main break or the city flushes lines and a load of crap goes into the filter plugging it up. Solution: simply replace the cheap prefilter and it works like new. I don't want that junk to go into my softener. This is clogged during service use (incoming upflow), but slow backwashing can result if the screen is clogged when flow reverses. Kind of like an asthma attack, you can breath in but breathing out is difficult.

Without the filter, that crap gets clogged in the screen and may not be totally flushed out causing backwash flow rate to decrease leaving a salty taste in the water for a short time. Switching to a 2040 without a prefilter will only postpone the same problem. The 4040 tanks can be separated to replace the carbon. While it is apart flush out the bottom screen both ways as best you can. DON'T try to pull out the tube as it is permanently lodged in there. Be sure the cover the tube when replacing carbon so that none gets down inside. I can give you more details if you care.

It sounds like some service calls were done as a method of frustration. These have only one salt setting (1 lb) and backwashing gearing should not have been altered. Changing discs would not have corrected the problem as they are determined by total hardness levels. As mentioned before, the backwashing control port may be clogged as well. This would require disassembly of the valve and cleaning the effected part. Not all is lost but it is best to understand the problem before charging ahead with a solution.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II