Tweet
Hi, this is the first time at this site-not sure how I found it-I'm hoping someone can help me! I have been trying to get someone to service my GE autotrol whole house system. The conmpany that installed it went out of business. They were supposed to check media and unit twice a year. I don't know exactly what media was put in my unit- the original big problem was a ph of 4.6! There were other issues too....iron, smell, hardness, to name a few. The unit is at our lake house with well water and this is our 3rd summer there. The media has never been replenished. Our house is on Lake Gaston, on the VA/NC border. Any help is greatly appreciated!
-
-
You should have acid neutralizing equipment and prossibly a water softener.
You will need a local dealer to come out and explain what equipment you have and how works and how to maintain it. -
Based on your limited test results here, I woiuld say you have serious water problems. If your pH is really 4.6, then a backwashing-type filter media will do little good. What kind of odor are you talking about. Hardness and iron is manageable but accurate test results would be needed.Originally posted by shelly
Do you have any other water treatment equipment?
Andy Christensen, CWS-IIComment
-
We have no other water treatment equipment at the lake house. The issues were resolved after installation of the unit. I was told it was a 2 stage process because the ph was so low. I just don't know what media was used. I will get a water test and bring it to the lake this weekend to get a accurate, current result and post the results. Thank you so much for your help.Comment
-
Forgot to answer about the smell. It's not a heavy sulfur (rotten eggs) smell. Kind of hard to describe, but like a strong, stagnant, earthy plant smell....if that makes any sense!Comment
-
Yes, your pH was extremely low. I am interested in the two-stage approach. When pH is that low, sometimes mineral acids may be involved. What kind of plumbing fixtures and piping do you have? Do you see any corrosion or pitting, green stains or other discolorations?Originally posted by shelly
So the only equipment you have is a two-stage acid neutralizer and no softener (using salt), right? Are there any ohter chemicals included in the treatment such as powders or liquids? Any pictures would help.
Andy Christensen, CWS-IILast edited by Andy CWS; 05-25-2010, 07:08 AM.Comment
-
Sorry this has taken me awhile to get the info you asked for. I took pictures but they are too large to send thru forum. I will email or text them to you if you give me your info. I tested the water with a kit from lowes:
ph 6.5
alkalinity 120
nitrate/nitrite 0
hardness 25+
copper 0
iron 0
The house is a doublewide mobil home and there a few copper pipes, but mostly pvc or flexible tubing. The faucets are pitted. Again, I'm not sure what media was installed originally-no water softener used, no salt that I know of. I seem to remember something about calcium and magnesium?? Marble chips?? I should have written down what they said, but i assumed the info was in the paperwork and they were supposed to come and check levels automatically. I didn't worry until I realized no one ever checked and the water changed. This whole thing has been a learning experience! Thanks again for your help.Comment
-
You have an acid neutralizer to adjust that 6.5 pH.
Andy Christensen, CWS-IIComment
-
Shelly, as we see your backwashed AN filter is buffering your very low pH to acceptable leaves of 6.5 to 8.5. It would be better if it were up to 7.0 or higher though, and with more mineral to replace what has been dissolved, it will.
The mineral used will be a mixed bed of calcite and corrosex usually but there is another product that may have been used.
You need to add mineral or have a local dealer do it.Comment
-
Is there some way to figure out what media is in it? Would I need to empty (somehow) the tank if I can't figure our what it is before adding something else? You mentioned calcite and corrosex as possible minerals to use-does it come pre-mixed together? I still haven't been able to find someone to service the unit--how would I add it myself and where would I find it to purchase? Also, will the addition of new media help the hard water? The water wasn't hard initially, is this a result of the media used to bring the ph up? Do I now need a softener? Thanks again for your help.Comment
-
There has to be a mixture of calcite and corrosex or flomag. usually 80/20.
I don't know if you can do this or not, it is slightly complicated and fairly mechanical The best solution is to look in your yellow pages under the heading water conditioning, softening, filtering etc. and call those dealers or plumbing of pump supply houses.
Yes that type of acid neutralizing adds hardness to the water and many people buy a softener to remove it.Comment
-
Thank you for your help! I will continue to try to get someone there. I may have to do it myself....
I will let you know. Have a good holiday weekend!!
ShellyComment
-
You may want to ask about a system using a soda ash feeder or one that uses sodium hydroxide. I have found that mineral pH neutralizers work best at around 5.6 and above. I doubt you will ever get it t7.0 or above with a mineral-type AN system.
Make sure of your source water qUAlity test results---try to get different people to test the water.
These chemical feed solutions have both advantages and disadvantages (like most treatment equipment) but they will not add hardness to your water like mineral based systems.
Andy Christensen, CWS-IILast edited by Andy CWS; 05-31-2010, 07:38 PM.Comment
-
Thanks Andy, if I can get someone there to look at it I will ask about the options available.
ShellyComment
-
If the local folks are competent, they will understand well the conditions of your water and best ways to handle it. Mind you, the low-cost way may seem inviting, but going cheap can be very costly.
The few copper pipes you have will deteriorate and level copper oxide stains (blue/green). Eventually, they will fail.
Andy Christensen, CWS-IIComment
Comment